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Reverse Osomsis System - Maintenance Guide
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Depending on the number of stages your RO system has, we recommend to change filters based on the following chart, unless your instructions from your system state otherwise.
| Sediment |
XX |
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| Pre Carbon |
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XX |
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| Post Carbon |
XX |
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| Membrane |
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XX |
XX |
| UV Lamp |
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XX |
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Note: You may need to change your filters more often depending on your water quality. Changing your Sediment filter is as important as changing the oil in your car, it protects your other filters and membrane from large particles and early fouling.
Step 1 - Before Changing Your Filter
(1) Turn off the cold water supply.
(2) Open cold water faucet to release the pressure.
(3) Open the RO faucet and let the tank drain completely.
(4) Leave the RO faucet open until the filter change is complete.
(5) Disconnect the Feed Water Connector.
Step 2 - Changing Your In Line Filter and/or In Line Membrane:
(1) Quick Connectors: Remove tubing from fitting by using a finger push in the collet against fitting and pull the tubing out.
(2) If you have Quick Connectors, remove the fittings from both ends of filter.
(3) Discard the old filter and replace with a new one. Please note the FLOW sign.
(4) Wrap 3-5 turns of Teflon Tape on the threaded side of fittings before putting them into the new filter.
(5) Reconnect tubing back into the fitting by pushing it all the way in.
Step 3 - Changing Your Filters from Hanging Housing:
(1) Unscrew the housing from the bracket (special wrench is recommended).
(2) Remove the used filter and replace it with the new one. Please note the FLOW sign on UDF Pre Carbon filters.
(3) Install the housing tightly into place.
Step 4 - Changing Your Membrane from Housing:
(1) Quick Connectors: Remove tubing from fitting by using a finger push in the collet against fitting and pull the tubing out.
(2) Remove the membrane housing cap first before you can remove the old membrane and replace it with the new one.
(3) Make sure the new membrane is all the way in.
Step 5 - After Changing your Filters / Membrane:
(1) Turn on the cold water supply.
(2) Drain the first tank of water after changing the filters before drinking.
(3) When the membrane was changed, drain the first two tanks of water before drinking.
(4) Check connections for leaks and correct if necessary.
If your filters are recently replaced and your system is not producing as much water as expected, you may need to add pressure to your water tank. Your water tank needs to be pressurized based on the size of your tank and the pressure of your water supply. The typical pressure setting is 7 PSI for 2.4 and 3.2 gallons water tank.
Step 1 - Before Disconnecting the Tank:
(1) Turn off the cold water supply.
(2) Open cold water faucet to release the pressure.
(3) Open the RO faucet and let the tank drain completely.
(4) Leave the RO faucet open until the filter change is complete.
(5) Disconnect the Feed Water Connector.
Step 2 - Adding Pressure to Tank:
(1) Remove the tank ball valve on the water storage tank.
(2) Empty the tank from water.
(3) Reverse the tank and remove the cap from the air valve.
(4) With a precise air pressure gauge (digital) measure the pressure of the tanks diaphragm.
(5) If the pressure is lower than the Amtrol manufacturer's chart recommends, pump the tank's diaphragm to the correct psi reading with a standard bike pump.
(6) Once the pressure is set, reconnect the tank to the system.
(7) Check connections for leaks and correct if necessary.
Leak
(1) Not enough Teflon Tape on fitting.
(2) Tubing is not pushed in all the way.
(3) Tubing is cut or broken.
No Water
(1) Quick Feed Water Connector is not attached.
(2) Faucet is not in "OPEN" position
(3) Tubing is kinked
Low Water
(1) Tubing is kinked
(2) Low water pressure: Install Booster Pump
(3) Tank pressure is low: see above (Add pressure)
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